Vanity units built
for wet rooms.

Not ordinary commercial plywood, and never plain MDF. We build wet-area carcasses in BWR or marine-grade ply with every cut face sealed, or in WPC, which is a plastic composite that simply cannot absorb water at all. WPC is the safer choice in a bathroom that is used by a large family and washed down daily.

A counter-top basin sits proud of the stone — it looks sculptural and it is easy to replace, but water pools around its foot and you have a joint to keep clean. An under-mount sits below the stone, so you can sweep water straight into the bowl and there is no rim to scrub. If the vanity gets heavy daily use, we usually push for under-mount.

Several ways at once. A drip edge or raised lip on the counter so splash runs forward rather than down the shutter face, a silicone seal at the wall junction, sealed edge banding on every panel, and a skirting detail lifted clear of the floor so a wet mop never sits against the carcass bottom.

They work very well, provided the hardware is rated for a damp environment — stainless or properly coated runners and hinges, not the cheapest steel that will bloom with rust in a year. We notch the drawer backs around the trap so you keep the drawer volume instead of losing the whole cabinet to the plumbing.

That is usually the best square foot in the room. A mirror cabinet gives you shuttered storage at eye level, and backlighting behind the mirror gives soft, even light on the face — far kinder than a single downlight overhead, which throws shadows under the eyes and makes shaving and make-up needlessly hard.

The exact height and horizontal position of the water inlets and the waste, marked on the wall before the tiles go on. We coordinate that at the drawing stage so the trap clears the drawer backs and the shut-off valves stay reachable. A vanity you have to demolish to fix a leak is a design failure, not bad luck.