Dining area
interior design.

Work outward from the chair, not inward from the wall. Each seat needs roughly 600mm of table edge, and you need about 900mm of clear floor behind a chair for someone to push back and stand up — more if a person has to walk past a seated guest. We measure your room, mark that clearance on the layout, and only then fix the table dimensions.

Roughly 750–850mm above the tabletop, so it lights the food without sitting in the eyeline of the people across from you. The ceiling point has to be marked before the false ceiling closes, and it must be centred on the table — not on the room, which is the mistake we correct most often.

If the good dinner service currently lives in a bedroom loft, yes. A crockery unit takes the display glassware behind glass, the everyday plates behind solid shutters, table linen in a shallow drawer and, where the household wants it, a small bar section with a lockable lower cabinet.

By treating it as one room with three jobs. The dining table becomes the hinge between the kitchen and the sofa, so we align it with the serving side of the counter, keep the walking line clear of the chair backs, and use the ceiling and the flooring to mark the zones rather than putting up a partition.

That is a planning decision, not a furniture one. An extendable table, a bench on one long side, or a sideboard that doubles as a buffet counter will take a festival crowd without the room feeling empty on an ordinary Tuesday. We plan for both numbers and tell you honestly what the room can seat.